Jane Keltner de Valle’s Highlights From Fashion Month
Just back from the mad dash that is fashion month. We can’t wait to bring you all the trends but until then, here’s a quick debrief on what everyone’s buzzing about right now.
1. Keeping up with the Jenners First Kendall and Kylie kicked off NYFW with the launch party for their new fashion collection (dubbed Kendall + Kylie, naturally). Then the entire Kardashian/Jenner clan (even Caitlin!) stole the show at Kanye’s Yeezy Season 3 show—no easy feat when said event takes place at Madison Square Garden. But with new baby duties keeping Kim closer to home, it was Kendall, Kylie, and momager-in-chief Kris who kept the torch burning bright all fashion month long. Kendall made star catwalk turns everywhere from Marc Jacobs to Chanel; Kylie was a front-row fixture at NYFW; and Kris made cameos e-v-e-r-y-w-h-e-r-e. Did I mention I lunched with her in New York and dined with her in Paris? The takeaway: Not even the Kardashians could keep up with the Jenners this season!
Selena Gomez in a Vetements sweatsuit.
2. Demna Gvasalia Entered The Fashion Lexicon
The name is admittedly hard to pronounce (for the record, it’s Deem-nah Vas-ah-liyah), but, trust me, you want to master it. After winning over the street-style set and Rihanna with his anti-establishment, Paris-based label Vetements, the 34-year-old Georgian was appointed creative director of Balenciaga, making his debut this season. And what a debut it was. In one fell swoop, Gvasalia won over the fashion crowd and ushered in an entirely new look with his couture takes on streetwear staples like puffers, motocross jackets, and track pants. For instant fashion cred—or just to keep your friends on their toes—start dropping his name at cocktail parties.
3. Fashion Shows as Entertainment
Ok, Kanye West officially takes the cake here. A fashion show as performance art curated by world renowned artist Vanessa Beecroft; a listening party for the release of his new album with West introducing each track; two rows worth of Kardashians and Jenners dripping in white sequins and fur and bookended by Anna Wintour and Carine Roitfeld; and a stadium-sized venue with a hybrid audience of invited journalists and ticket-buying fans? Good luck topping that! But West certainly wasn’t the only “designer” tapping into the value of fashion as entertainment. Runner-up status goes to Diane Von Furstenberg, who created an insta-frenzy with her disco room starring Karlie, Kendall, Gigi, Jourdan, and DVF herself dancing and taking selfies in sequined wrap dresses.
4. Newcomer to watch: Sies Marjan
It isn’t often that you spot Anna Wintour front row at a total unknown’s debut show. So what makes Sies Marjan so special? The now-New York-based designer Sander Lak is an alum of Dries Van Noten, the Paris-based label that’s long been a fashion insider favorite, and his clothes are just oh-so-pretty. Think florals and jacquards in a dusty rose palette with pops of neon yellow and orange. Yes, color! We’re banking on his ultra-feminine dresses turning up on Hollywood A-listers in the months to come. And when they do, you can say you knew the label back when.
5. Gaga Made Her Catwalk Debut! Speaking of model casting, Marc Jacobs is the king of curve balls in that arena. He gave Kendall Jenner her first runway gig, helped turn Posh Spice into Victoria Beckham when he put her in his 2008 ad campaign, and sent Beth Ditto down his catwalk not once, but twice. Fall’s big coup? Casting heretofore runway virgin Lady Gaga in his lineup. Needless to say, the Grammy-winning artist more than held her own. Do we smell a campaign in her future?
6. Fashion Got Personal
The Monogramming trend is going strong. My favorite takes on it this season? Napkins embroidered with everyone’s initials (from mine to Karlie Kloss’s) at Frame Denim’s chic New York dinner celebrating their third anniversary, and Mulberry’s leather jacket designed in collaboration with Georgia May Jagger and featuring your choice of a fox, an owl, or a bee on the back, plus, you guessed it, your initials. Say my name!
7. Afternoon Tea, The British Way
There are many things I look forward to about London Fashion Week: the explosion of creativity, for one; the OTT street style, for another. But ranking right up there with the fashion is the very British tradition of high tea, complete with finger sandwiches, scones, and cakes. Sadly, I didn’t have time for my usual trip to Brown’s Hotel this season, so imagine my delight when, on my British Airways return flight to New York, they served a compact but no less delicious take on afternoon tea. Whoever said there’s nothing civilized about flying these days clearly hasn’t flown BA!
8. Victoria Beckham Invited Me Into Her Home
Ok, it was her London store, but close enough. And she personally walked me through her fall Victoria Victoria Beckham collection, even sharing the adorable story about how her daughter Harper won’t take off the dress her mom designed for her. She had worn it on their recent flight from New York (post Beckham’s fashion show there) and then kept insisting on wearing it everyday thereafter. When Beckham asked her why, she replied: “Because you made it, mummy.” Aww! Perhaps the only thing swoonier was when David Beckham made a surprise cameo towards the end of our visit.
9. Thigh-High Boots: They’re Everywhere
And I mean everywhere! At Aquazzura, they came in velvet with gold embellishments. At Balenciaga they’re leather and scrunched. At Christian Louboutin there was a sock-boot take that stretched all the way up the leg. Come fall, you’ll be wearing them under dresses and over skinny jeans. Word to the wise: Start prepping your gams now!
10. International Women’s Day Happened and Glamour Celebrated
In honor of #IWD2016, Glamour invited a host of our chic friends to dress in their favorite female designers. (For the results, go to instagram and check the #DesignedByHer hashtag.) My favorite part about the initiative, other than the fact that it was an opportunity to highlight all the amazing female talent out there right now: It gave me an excuse to sport a Sacai bomber straight off designer Chitose Abe’s fall runway. Talk about fast fashion.
11. #catsofinstagram meet #fashioncats
If you’re a feline fan, you’re in luck. Fall 2016 is shaping up to be the season of the cat. Two of my favorite takes: the oversized cat head necklaces and bag charms at Loewe and the kitty cuffs at Chanel, complete with double C’s for eyes. Choupette, is that you?
12. Puffers Got The fashion Treatment
Remember normcore? Well, it’s back. Sort of. Puffer jackets, once the most basic of basics, experienced a fashion renaissance on the fall runways. The chicest new take goes to Balenciaga’s off-the-shoulder styles. But no need to wait for them to hit stores. Follow stylist and street style star Anya Ziourova’s cue and simply unzip yours just enough to shrug it off your shoulders. Voila! You’ve got next season’s look now.